Nestled close to popular tourist spots like Asakusa, Sensoji Temple, and Tokyo Skytree, Mukojima (向島) is a nostalgic gem in Tokyo, brimming with the charm of the Edo to Showa eras. It’s a place where you can not only admire picturesque scenery but also immerse yourself in the authentic culture of Tokyo’s ‘Shitamachi’ (下町 – old downtown) and witness the beauty of traditional craftsmanship. Among these experiences, a ‘Ryotei’ (料亭 – traditional Japanese restaurant) visit, where you can savor exquisite ‘Kaiseki’ (會席料理 – multi-course haute cuisine) and enjoy ‘Zashiki Asobi’ (座敷遊 – traditional parlor games with geisha), offers a precious insight into Japan’s renowned hospitality. Join me as we explore Mukojima’s vibrant ‘Hanamachi’ (花街 – geisha district) and discover suggested itineraries to truly experience its unique allure.
Table of Contents
- What is “Mukojima” in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward?
- Tokyo’s Largest Hanamachi (Ryotei District): Mukojima
- A “Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)” to Savor Seasonal Cuisine and Zashiki Asobi in Mukojima Ryotei
- Understand Geisha’s Training and Traditional Legacy: “Visit a Practice Session and Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)”
- Explore Famous Shitamachi Spots: “Rikisha Tour of the Area and Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)”
- Stroll through Mukojima Hanamachi with a Geisha (Duration: 1 hour)
- Conclusion
What is “Mukojima” in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward?
Mukojima (向島) is located in the central-western part of Tokyo’s Sumida Ward (墨田區), with the Sumida River (隅田川) flowing along its western side. From the Edo Period (1603–1868) onwards, this area flourished as a ‘Ryotei’ (料亭 – traditional Japanese restaurant) district. It’s said that the name ‘Mukojima’ (向島), meaning ‘island opposite,’ was given because when viewed from the bustling Asakusa (淺草) area back then, it appeared like an island across the Sumida River.
Collection of Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library
Artwork depicting the area from near “Chomeiji Temple” (長命寺) to the lower reaches of the Sumida River (隅田川)
“Edo Meisho Sumidagawa Hana Zakari” by Utagawa Hiroshige I (初代歌川廣重), collection of the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library (東京都立中央圖書館)
The fourth Shogun, Tokugawa Ietsuna (德川家綱), planted cherry trees around Mokuboji Temple (木母寺), which marked the origin of the ‘Bokutei Sakura’ (墨堤櫻花 – cherry blossoms along the Sumida River embankment). In 1717, the eighth Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshimune (德川吉宗), had numerous cherry trees planted along the Sumida River (隅田川) banks, aiming to create a leisure spot for the common people. Subsequently, local residents continued planting cherry trees, transforming the area into what was renowned as Edo’s (江戶) premier cherry blossom viewing spot. It also became a fashionable and elegant gathering place for literati and artists. Geographically close to Sensoji Temple (淺草寺), it was also a scenic spot with rustic countryside views. Pilgrims flocked to shrines such as Mimeguri Inari Shrine (三圍稻荷社), now Mimeguri Shrine (三圍神社), and Akiba Daigongen Shrine (秋葉大權現社), now Akiba Shrine (秋葉神社).
National Diet Library Digital Collections
Ancient map of Mukojima (向島) showing records of “Mimeguri Inari Shrine” (三圍稻荷社) and other places
“Sumidagawa Mukojima Ezu” (隅田川向嶋繪圖), National Diet Library Digital Collections (國立國會圖書館數位典藏)
Compiled by Kageyama Chikayasu (景山致恭), Tomatsu Masanori (戶松昌訓), Iyama Yoshiaki (井山能知), “Edo Kiri-e Zu” (江戶切繪圖) - Sumidagawa Mukojima Ezu, published by Haruya Seishichi (張屋清七), Kaei 2 – Bunkyū 2 (1849–1862)
(Referenced: 2024-12-08)
Cherry blossoms along the Bokutei embankment (墨堤) today
“Mimeguri Shrine” (三圍神社) famous for Inari Okami (稻荷大神)
“Akiba Shrine” (秋葉神社), where the god of fire prevention is enshrined
In 1804, antique dealer Sahara Kikuyu (佐原鞠塢) collected ancient Japanese plants like plum blossoms and Susuki grass, and built ’Mukojima Hyakkaen’ (向島百花園 – Hyakkaen Garden) at the former residence of the Shogunate retainer, Taga family. At that time, ‘Seikōan’ (清光庵), a villa owned by the kimono merchant Iseya Hikoemon, famous for its 300 plum trees (also known as Kameido Umeyashiki), was already a popular plum blossom viewing spot. Thus, Mukojima Hyakkaen, with its 360 plum trees, came to be known as ‘Shin Umeyashiki’ (新梅屋敷 – New Plum Mansion). Since then, more renowned plants praised in Japanese classical literature have been gathered, allowing visitors to enjoy flowers and plants throughout all four seasons. Today, it is designated as a Tokyo Metropolitan Garden, a National Historic Site, and a Place of Scenic Beauty.
National Diet Library Digital Collections
Appearance of “Mukojima Hyakkaen” (向島百花園) in the Edo Period (江戶時代)
“Thirty-six Views of the Eastern Capital: Mukojima Hanayashiki Nanakusa” by Utagawa Hiroshige II (第二代歌川廣重), National Diet Library Digital Collections (國立國會圖書館數位典藏)
(Referenced: 2024-12-08)
Plum blossoms at “Mukojima Hyakkaen” (向島百花園)
Tokyo’s Largest Hanamachi (Ryotei District): Mukojima
In the mid-Edo Period (江戶時代) (1681–1780), with the emergence of Matsuo Basho, ‘Ryori Chaya’ (料理茶屋 – traditional Japanese restaurants/teahouses) began hosting gatherings for ‘Haikai’ (俳諧 – linked verse poetry) and ‘Renga’ (連歌 – collaborative poetry). During these banquets, talented performances such as dance and traditional Japanese music (‘Kokugaku’) would entertain guests, leading to the rise of a new female profession dedicated to entertaining clients with their artistry: ‘Geisha’ (藝伎). From the Edo Period onwards, Mukojima (向島) flourished with its ‘Ryotei’ (料亭) and beautiful scenery. After the Meiji Period (1868–1912), the establishment of the ‘Kenban’ (見番 – Geisha management office) marked the true beginning of the ‘Hanamachi’ (花街 – geisha district). The origins of the Kenban are debated, but one theory suggests it was founded in 1875 by Sakata Kiku (坂田KIKU), the proprietress of a restaurant called ‘Uehan’ (植半), located near Suijin Shrine. At its establishment, the geisha were known as ‘Hazakura Geisha’ (葉櫻藝妓). Several geisha became emblematic of Mukojima, with ‘Wakasaya’ Kouta (わかさや小歌) being the most famous, even depicted in ‘Teito Meibutsu Nishikie’ (帝都名物錦繪 – Ukiyo-e prints of famous places and people in the imperial capital).
Collection of Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library
Portrait of “Wakasaya” Kouta (わかさや小歌), known as a representative geisha (藝伎)
“Tokyo Jiman Meibutsu-kai” (東京じまんめいぶつ会) by Baiso Kaoru (梅素薫) – featuring “Takemoto Tsugadayu” (竹本津賀太夫), “Bira Tatsu” (ビラ辰), “Kototoitei Toyama Shinshichi Dango” (こと問亭 外山新七 だんご), “Mukojima Wakasaya Kouta Yamazaki Toyo” (向島 わかさや小歌 山崎とよ), “Mitate Moyō Sumidagawa Some” (見立模様角田川そめ) (1986), collection of the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library (東京都立圖書館)
Thus, by 1940, Mukojima’s (向島) ‘Hanamachi’ (花街) entered its golden age. It’s said that at that time, there were 215 ‘Ryotei’ (料亭 – traditional Japanese restaurants) and other eateries, along with as many as 408 ‘Okiya’ (置屋 – geisha houses), housing approximately 1,300 geisha. It was not only a favorite haunt for numerous literati and artists but also a frequent setting for ‘Ukiyo-e’ (浮世繪 – woodblock prints), novels, and plays. However, Mukojima suffered extensive damage during the wartime ‘Great Tokyo Air Raid’ (東京大空襲). In 1986, multiple Kenban (見番 – geisha management offices) were consolidated into one, reorganized as the ‘Mukōjima Bokutei Kumiai’ (向嶋墨堤組合 – Mukojima Bokutei Association).
Street view of Mukojima Ryotei (料亭) district
The ‘Hanamachi’ (花街) of Mukojima (向島) primarily operates through three distinct organizations, each playing a vital role in delivering an unparalleled level of sophisticated hospitality. These include: the ‘Ryotei’ (料亭 – traditional Japanese restaurants), which offer exquisite Japanese cuisine (primarily ‘Kaiseki’ – 會席料理) and are authorized to host banquets featuring geisha performances; the ‘Okiya’ (置屋 – geisha houses), where the ‘Okasan’ (女將 – proprietress) is responsible for the daily life, etiquette, and education of the geisha and ‘Hangyoku’ (半玉 – apprentice geisha) under her care; and the ‘Kenban’ (見番 – geisha management office), which acts as the central liaison for Ryotei, Okiya, and geisha dispatch. Currently, Mukojima boasts 11 Ryotei: Irifune (入舟), Kiyoshi (清よし), Sakurachaya (櫻茶屋), Sumida (すみ多), Chiho (千穗), Chiyoda (千代田), Gessui (月笛), Dōjōji (道成寺), Namimura (浪むら), Futaba (ふたば), and Momofuku (桃福). There are 45 Okiya responsible for dispatching geisha to these Ryotei, collectively managing 80 geisha, and diligently working to train Hangyoku (半玉) to ensure the continuity of this beautiful tradition and culture.
Did you know Tokyo is home to six vibrant hanamachi (geisha districts)? Among them are Shimbashi (Ginza), Akasaka, Yoshicho (Nihonbashi Ningyocho), Kagurazaka, Asakusa, and Mukojima. Of these, Mukojima boasts the largest number of active geisha, making it a truly special place to experience traditional Japanese culture.
Imagine wandering the moonlit streets of Mukojima. You’ll hear the gentle rustle of kimonos, the enchanting strumming of shamisen, and the captivating melodies of nagauta (long songs) drifting through the air. Despite the changing times, people, and landscapes, Mukojima retains a unique charm, cloaked in a tranquil, almost mystical aura that feels wonderfully removed from the everyday hustle.
View of Mukojima from Asakusa across the Sumida River
Ready to dive deeper into Mukojima’s distinctive world? I’m excited to share four incredible experiences that will allow you to truly immerse yourself in its unique charm.
1. The Ultimate ‘Ryotei Experience’ with Seasonal Cuisine and Zashiki Games (Interpreter Guide Included)
Nestled in the heart of Mukojima’s hanamachi (geisha district), you’ll discover “Ryotei Futaba,” a secluded, almost secret ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant). This is the place for an unparalleled, top-tier hospitality experience, where you can indulge in seasonal kaiseki (traditional multi-course) cuisine and be enchanted by captivating geisha song and dance performances, all while soaking in a rich Edo-period ambiance.
The talented chefs at Ryotei Futaba meticulously craft each dish, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients. Prepare to savor exquisite seasonal delicacies while being mesmerized by the geisha’s masterful artistry.
7:00 PM: Immerse Yourself in Japanese Culinary Culture at “Ryotei Futaba”
Step into the zashiki (traditional tatami room) at Ryotei Futaba and delight in an authentic kaiseki meal, expertly prepared with seasonal ingredients. The diverse menu features an array of beautifully presented dishes, blending Japanese and Western influences, that are as visually stunning as they are delicious. From seasonal vegetables and fresh fish to warm wanmono (soup dishes) and fresh fruit, each course enhances the banquet, pairing perfectly with refreshing beer or fine sake.
As the geisha gracefully pour your drinks, engage in delightful conversation about your travels or delve into the fascinating world of geisha culture. It’s an extraordinary yet incredibly comfortable and welcoming experience – a true escape from the ordinary.
A charming lantern bearing the name “Futaba (ふ多葉)”
The large banquet hall can accommodate groups of ten or more
Enjoying drinks and conversation with geisha is a unique pleasure of a ryotei
Kaiseki cuisine made with seasonal ingredients; every dish is a luxurious delicacy
Dishes meticulously prepared by the chef delight all five senses of the traveler
Joyful discussion about differences in food culture
7:45 PM: Be Captivated by Geisha Performances
As the banquet unfolds and the atmosphere warms, the songs and dances become even more spectacular. The performance typically begins with a captivating vocal rendition accompanied by the beautiful tones of the shamisen (a traditional three-stringed instrument). You might witness “Echigo Jishi,” a nagauta (long song) adaptation, “Hagi Kikyo,” depicting a maiden’s heart, or “Yugure,” an ode to the cool evening breeze of the Sumida River. Each performance is deeply rooted in Japan’s hanamachi culture, utterly enchanting and drawing you into their world.
Shamisen and vocal performance
Being able to watch performances and dances up close is also a feature of the zashiki
The geisha will perform classic zashiki songs from the late Edo period (1781-1867) to the Meiji era (1868-1912), such as “Yakkosan” from the Edo Ha-uta genre, alongside lively “Sawa-uta” sung with shamisen and taiko (drums) in the pleasure quarters. Being able to witness the fruits of their daily dedication up close, while dining, drinking, and conversing, offers an unparalleled moment of relaxation and cultural immersion.
Around 8:45 PM: Engage in Interactive Zashiki-Asobi Parlor Games
A highlight of the evening is the interactive zashiki-asobi (parlor games)! You’ll sit face-to-face with the geisha, engaging in lively games like “Konpira Fune,” a reflex game played with bowl-shaped props while singing. Or try “Tora Tora,” a unique rock-paper-scissors game played using body postures, representing different characters: Karajishi (a lion-dog with a spear thrusting motion), Tora (a tiger mimicking a crouching position), and Okami (an old woman with a cane-wielding motion).
There’s also “Omawari-san,” which involves drums, and “Hyomen Choryoku” (Surface Tension), a game that tests your skill and steadiness by pouring sake without spilling it. Depending on the game’s outcome, participants might have to drink, which only adds to the joyful and lively atmosphere!
The geisha will assist with the zashiki games, so there’s no need to worry about not knowing the rules
First-time experiences can’t help but bring smiles
Three hours fly by, ending with a commemorative photo
2. Unveiling the Dedication and Tradition of Geisha: ‘Visit a Practice Session and Ryotei Experience’ (Interpreter Guide Included)
The Koban (見番), often referred to as the geisha house or association office, serves not only to arrange geisha appearances at ryotei but also as a dedicated practice space for the geisha themselves. While learning etiquette through traditional Japanese music is crucial, they must also master traditional techniques like expressing “breath,” “tone,” “emotion,” and “elegance” in sync with the music’s rhythm. The main performance forms, Joruri (a form of chanted narration with shamisen accompaniment) and instrumental music, demand relentless daily training to elevate them to a true art form.
This exclusive tour offers a rare opportunity to step into an area typically off-limits to the public. You’ll observe geisha during their actual practice sessions and even get hands-on with a shime-daiko (tightened drum) instrument experience! Your journey begins with a fascinating explanation of hanamachi culture by the okasan (proprietress), followed by a percussion instructor introducing various drums (like the taiko) and their playing methods. Afterwards, you’ll witness hanagyoku (apprentice geisha) honing their skills.
Gain a deep appreciation for the profound depth of Japanese traditional performing arts. After witnessing their dedicated practice, participants will also have the chance to try playing the instruments themselves – a truly unique and enriching experience!
A row of lanterns hangs at the entrance of the Koban
The Koban during practice
An apprentice geisha, called Hanagyoku, practicing a percussion instrument
Explanation of the differences between Koban, Ryotei, Geisha, and Hanagyoku
Embark on a unique journey into the heart of Tokyo’s traditional culture with these captivating experiences in Mukojima!
The master’s captivating percussion performance.
A unique opportunity to try your hand at percussion instruments with expert guidance from the master himself!
Following this, we journeyed to a ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) to enjoy the magnificent ‘Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)’, featuring splendid geisha song and dance performances.
Your Journey Unfolds:
- 17:30 Meet at Kenban (Geisha training hall/meeting place)
- 17:45 Observe a practice session
- 18:10 Hands-on musical experience
- 18:25 Take commemorative photos and chat with the geisha
- 18:40 Depart from Kenban
- 21:30 Experience Japanese dining culture and geisha song and dance at the ryotei
＜Please refer to the ’Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)’ for enjoying seasonal cuisine at a Ryotei in Mukojima＞
3. Discovering Shitamachi’s Iconic Sights: The ‘Local Rickshaw Tour & Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)’
For a truly immersive experience, we highly recommend a rickshaw ride! Your knowledgeable rickshaw puller will guide you through enchanting, ancient streetscapes that beautifully intertwine with modern urban views like the Tokyo Skytree, all while offering glimpses of the Sumida River’s distinct seasonal beauty.
Starting from ‘Jidaiya’ (時代屋), a well-established rickshaw company, your journey will pass through spots perfect for capturing Tokyo Skytree, such as Sukeroku Yume-dori (Skytree Observation Plaza) and Kototoi Bridge (言問橋). The rickshaw ride, lasting about 30 delightful minutes, is a relaxing and enjoyable way to reach your destination: a ryotei in Mukojima. The rickshaw puller’s insights into Asakusa’s rich history, hidden gems, and recommended local spots will add another layer of charm and enjoyment to your adventure.
Just stepping into these elegant rickshaws fills you with an immediate sense of excitement and anticipation!
Jidaiya Meijikan (時代屋明治館) is located near Kaminarimon (雷門).
Even waiting in the nostalgic room becomes a cherished memory in itself.
Kototoi Bridge and Tokyo Skytree.
After arriving at the ryotei entrance by rickshaw, prepare for the grand finale: a formal and dazzling geisha song and dance performance, part of the exquisite ’Ryotei Experience (with Interpreter Guide)‘.
4. An Unforgettable Stroll: Walking Through Mukojima Hanamachi with a Geisha (Approx. 1 Hour)
Imagine leisurely exploring the elegant streets of Mukojima, accompanied by a beautiful geisha gracefully dressed in a kimono – it’s the ultimate ‘escape from the everyday’ experience. The enchanting sight of geisha, appearing as if they’ve stepped right out of the Edo period into modern Tokyo, is truly a spectacle not to be missed. In spring, you can admire the beautiful cherry blossoms blooming along the Sumida River, among other scenic views. Indulge completely in this truly extraordinary escape from the mundane.
A beautiful scene of night streetlights reflecting on the water.
Sakurabashi (櫻橋) illuminated at night.
A special moment offering a glimpse into the daily life of a geisha.
After Your Journey: Embrace Mukojima’s Enchanting Nightlife!
‘Kin Mura’ (金Mura) is a charming and well-established bar in Mukojima, celebrating over 10 years of operation. While private tatami rooms are available, we highly recommend seizing the unique opportunity to mingle at the counter bar, often frequented by friendly regulars. Share stories, enjoy lively karaoke, and soak in the vibrant atmosphere with a few drinks! Engaging in conversation with the owner, who possesses a deep knowledge of Mukojima, will undoubtedly reveal another fascinating side of this historic district.
‘Mukojima Kin Mura’ is located in a quiet residential area.
Sitting around the bar counter with a tranquil atmosphere.
Enjoying drinks and light snacks while chatting.
Turning up the atmosphere with karaoke is also a bar’s delight.
Final Thoughts on Your Mukojima Adventure
Whether you choose to savor exquisite kaiseki (multi-course haute cuisine) and immerse yourself in zashiki asobi (traditional geisha entertainment) at a ryotei, or embark on a charming rickshaw tour to iconic landmarks like Tokyo Skytree, any of these itineraries promises an extraordinary day enveloped in Mukojima’s rich Edo-period charm.
Since you’ve made it all the way to Japan, why not fully embrace this enchanting journey? Let the beautiful scenery and vibrant culture of Mukojima create an illusion of stepping back in time, etching unforgettable memories into your heart.
※This initiative is proudly supported by grants from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government and the Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau, dedicated to promoting vibrant nightlife tourism.